Overalls and other garments



May 25, 1943.

F. H. HO MOELLE OVERALLS AND OTHER GARMENTS Filed-Jan 9, 1942.

. INVENTOR mm a HOMOELkE GYM f ATTORNEY Patented May 25, 1943 I UNI TED STATES EN T 0 FFI- CE OVERALLS AND. OTHER GARM'ENTS Frank H. Homoelle, London; Ohio "Appli cationilanuary 9, 1942, Serial No. 426,143

I "6 Claims.

- This invention relates to themanufacture of garments, and particularly to themanufacture .of. overalls, pajamas, shorts and the like.

An object of the invention is to providea new and improvedseam. for joining fabric panels.

:Another object of. theinvention is toprovide a scam which is reenforced throughout substantially the entire length thereof.

Another object of the invention is. to reenforce 'the, crotch of-overalls,. pajamas, shorts and the like to prevent the crotch 'seamifrom tearing from the lower end of the button stand.

Another object of the invention .is .toprovide a method of making a seam for the crotch of overalls,. pajamas, shorts or, the. like which is reenforced.

Another object of the invention is to provide a reenforcing strip for the crotchseam of over- .alls, pajamas, shorts or the like which extends upwardly adjacent the face of the button stand and is secured thereto.

Another object of the invention is to provide a fabric reenforcing strip-across th V-pattern out which forms the lower edge of thebutton stand and the beginning of the crotch seamof overalls, pajamas, shorts and the like to prevent tearing of the cloth panel at the baseof the V- pattern cut.

Further objects and advantages will become apparent from the drawing and the followin dea 'scription.

In the drawing:

Figure l is an elevational view of a pair of overalls having the invention applied thereon.

Figure 2 is a cross-sectional elevational view 14::

of the crotch seam of theoverall shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is an elevational view of theleft front panel of the overall having the button stand seamed.

Figure 4 is an elevational view of the right front panel of the overall having the button hole stand seamed.

Figure 5 is an elevational view of the left front panel, similar to Figure-:3, but showing a reenforcing strip positioned thereon and the crotch seam edge of the panel folded over the reenforcing strip.

Figure 6 is a front elevational view of the crotch portion of the overall showing the right front panel superimposed upon the left front panel, having rows of stitching to complete the crotch seam.

This invention relates particularl to ,;the-:man-

ufacture of fabric articlesgwherein a panel hav-- .inga button. stand is positioned adjacent a panel having a button hole stand in a manner that the buttonv stand lSzCliSIJOSBd beneath the button .hole stand. and a seam extends from the lower edge of the buttonand button hole stands.

While in the. following description the terms usedv.Will refer .to .a button stand and a button hole. stand, yet'it is to be understood that these termsydonot confine their use to buttons and button holes but that snap fasteners, or zippers or any other fastening-means can be secured to the button stand and button hole stand respectively without departing from the invention.

;A]so,-. the .descriptionand disclosure refers. particularlyytothe strengthening of the crotch seam of overalls. Theinvention, however, is not limitedto ,thisgspecific seam. but can be used in manyinstances;where the juncture between the two-pattern: cuts forms a V in the fabric panel, and any crotch seam of overalls, pajamas, shorts or similar articles of manufacture can be strengthened by the userof the seam of thi in- -vention.

In this invention the overall "H3 consists of a trouser leg ILand; a trouserle IZsecured to a bib l3 having suitable supporting straps M. In

.the .followingzdescriptionythe front panels for the trouser legs H and, l2 will be referred to as left rand right panels, as viewed in Figure 1, without .regardzto the-leg the trouser leg is to be placed upon. The trouser leg I I thus forms a left front panel [5 and the trouser leg :EZ'forms aright front panel; 15. The left; panel i5 has a button stand ll which has the edge 18 thereof infolded beneath the face of the panel In and stitched inposition .by a row of stitching 19 (a shown in Figure 3).

Figure 3 is therefore a sub-assembly of the left front: panel I 5 with the button stand ll completed.

The right front panel l6 has a button hole stand v2i) formed by infolding the edge 2| of the is adapted to be infolded on the fold line 21 to form a part of the crotch seam extending from the lower end of the button stand ll. The

.right frontpanel I6 is provided with an edge -28 which is adapted to be infolded in a manner to be positioned below thefaceof the panel 16. as shown, indotted lines, to provide, a second portion of the crotch seam which extends from the bottom of the button hole stand 20. The infolded edges of the panels I and I6 are brought together to form the crotch seam 30 in a manner which will be hereinafter described.

Returning now to the left front panel I5, the reenforcing strip 25 is placed upon the face of the panel I5 in a manner that the upper end of the reenforcingstrip 25 extends upwardly upon the face of the button stand I6 about one inch from the V-cut 3I provided in the panel I5 between the button stand I! and the seam edge 26. The lower end of the reenforcing strip 25 extends downwardly from the V-cut 3| and has one edge thereof adjacent the fold line 21. The edge 26 of the panel I5 is then folded over the face of the reenforcing strip 25 (as shown in Figure 5). A row of stitching 32 secures the reenforcing strip 25 and the folded edge 26 in the position just described.

It will be noted from Figure 5 that the reenforcing strip 25 extends across the V-cut 3|. The position of the reenforcing strip 25 (as shown in Figure 5) prevents ripping of the cloth starting at the weak point provided by the V-cut 3|. Under all normal circumstances the warp threads of the cloth of the panel I5 extend vertically along the trouser leg II while the woof threads of the cloth are across the width of the leg. Therefore, it can be seen that the V-cut 3| provides a weak point at the bottom of the button stand which would permit the cloth to rip along the warp threads. The right front panel I6 has a similar condition at the base of the V-cut 33. Since a cloth is torn more easily with the warp than with the woof it can readily be appreciated that the juncture between the crotch seam and the bottom of the button hole and the button stand forms a weak point in the crotch of overalls, pajamas, shorts and like articles of manufacture.

The threads of the reenforcing strip 25 are so located that the warp threads extend along the length thereof so that the strip is not easily torn with the woof. In addition, the strip 25 can be removed from the selvage edge of the cloth so that one of the edges of the reenforcing strip 25 will be unbroken, the woof threads being securely held within the warp threads. This again will increase the strength of the reenforcing strip 25.

To assemble the panels I5 and I6 (as shown in Figure 6) the panel I5 is arranged with a fold 34 so that the reenforcing strip 25 is arranged in a straight line. A similar fold 35 is made in the panel I6 so that the seam edge 36 forms a straight line with the edge 36 of the button hole stand. The panel I5 is arranged in the manner described and the unsecured portion 38 of the reenforcing strip 25 is folded upon the infolded edge 26 of the panel I5. The infolded edge 36 of'the panel I6 is then placed upon the exposed face of the reenforcing strip 25, which face is the reverse face of the reinforcing strip (as viewed in Figure 5).

A row of stitching 39 is then placed longitudinally through the infolded edge 36 and the combined fold formed by the reenforcing strip 25 and the infolded edge 26 of the panel I5. A row of stitching 46 stands transversely of the button stand and across the top edge of the reenforcing strip 25 to aid in securing the reenforcing strip 25 to the button stand I5 and the button hole stand 23.

The completely formed seam is shown in the cross-sectional perspective view of Figure 2. The left front panel I5 is shown with the seam edge 26 folded upon the face of the reenforcing strip 25. The row of stitching 32 secures the reenforcing strip between the infolded edge 26 of the panel I5 and the body of the panel I5. The reenforcing strip 25 is then folded over the face of the infolded edge 26 of the panel I5 so that the portion 38 of the reenforcing strip 25 lays upon the infolded edge 26.

The right front panel I6 has the edge 36 infolded beneath the face of the panel I6 to form a seam edge. A portion of the infolded edge 36 of the panel I6 lays upon the portion 38 of the reenforcing strip 25. The row of stitching 39 is then placed through all of the layers of cloth (as shown in Figure 2).

A portion of the infolded edge 33 of the panel I6 extends beyond the fold edge I of the reenforcing strip 25 and engages the body of the left front panel I5. A row of stitching 32 secures the fold edge 43 of the panel I6 to the body of the'panel I5. This row of stitching 42 is parallel to the row of stitching 39 and extends throughout the length of the seam.

While the seam produced in the manner described herein is a preferred form, it is to be understood that modifications of the arrangement of the elements composing the seam can be altered slightly without departing from the spirit of the invention, and that all such modifications are intended to be included within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus fully described my invention what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

l. A seam for the crotch of overalls, pajamas, shorts and the like extending from the button stand rearwardly comprising infolded edges on adjacent panel sections extending from. the button stand rearwardly, one of said edges being positioned upon the other of said edges to form a lap seam, a re-enforcing strip disposed within said seam. having a portion thereof engaging the button stand and extending from the button stand rearwardly through the seam, said re-enforcing strip having one edge thereof positioned between one of said panels and the infolded edge thereof and the opposite edge positioned on top of the infolded edge of said panel, the infolded edge of the opposite panel being positioned upon the re-enforcing strip, the fold of said last mentioned infolded edge extending beyond the fold of said re-enforcing strip into engagement with the first mentioned panel, and rows of stitching in the seam extending throughout the length of the re-enforcing strip, one of said rows of stitching extending through and joining the infolded edges of said panels and said re-enforcing strip, another of said rows of stitching extending through the fold edge of the upper lap panel and the body of the lower panel to join the same.

2. A sewed article comprising a fabric panel having a button stand and a seam edge extending from the bottom thereof, a second fabric panel having a button hole stand and a seam edge extending from the bottom thereof, a fabric strip having a portion thereof disposed upon said button stand and a portion positioned adjacent said seam edge extending therefrom, said seam edge extending from said button stand being folded upon said strip, a row of stitching running throughout the length of said strip through said infolded seam edge and said strip for securing said strip between said infolded seam edge and to said button stand, said seam edge of said button hole panel being infolded and positioned upon said strip, said button and button hole stands being placed in cooperating position, and rows of stitching passing completely through said infolded edges and said strip to join the same, said stitching extending throughout the length of said strip.

3. A sewed article comprising a fabric panel having a button stand and a seam edge extending from the bottom thereof, a second fabric panel having a button hole stand and a seam edge extending from the bottom thereof, a fabric strip having a portion thereof disposed upon the face side of said button stand and a portion positioned adjacent said seam edge extending therefrom, said seam edge extending from said button stand being folded upon said strip, a row of stitching running throughout the length of said strip for securing said strip to the face side of said panel between said infolded seam edge and to said button stand, said seam edge of said button hole panel being infolded upon the rearward face of the panel and positioned upon said strip with the fold edge thereof engaging the face side of said button stand panel, said button and button hole stands being placed in cooperating position, and rows of stitching passing completely through said infolded edges and said strip to join the same throughout the entire length of said strip, one of said rows of stitching extending through and joining the infolded edges of said panels and said strip and another of said rows of stitching extending through the extending fold edge of said button hole panel and the body of the button stand panel to join the same.

4. A sewed article comprising a fabric panel having a V-shaped notch in the edge thereof, a second fabric panel having a V-shaped notch in the edge thereof, a fabric strip disposed upon one of said panels and having a portion thereof positioned on one side of the vertex of the V-shaped notch in said one panel and a second portion positioned adjacent an edge of said V-shaped notch extending from said vertex whereby said strip crosses said vertex, said V edge of said one panel being folded over said strip, a row of stitching running throughout the length of said strip through said infolded edge and said strip for securing said strip between said infolded edge and to said panel in said position, one of the edges of said V-shaped notch in said second panel being infolded and positioned upon said first panel with the fold edge thereof extending beyond said strip into engagement with the body of said first panel, and rows of stitching passing through said panels, one of said rows passing through said infolded edges and said strip to join the same and another of said rows passing through said extending fold edge of said second panel and said first panel, said rows of stitching extending throughout the length of said strip to thereby secure said strip and said panels together on both sides of the vertex of said notch in said first panel.

5. A method of making a crotch seam for overalls, pajamas, shorts and like articles comprising forming a button stand and a crotch seam edge upon a fabric panel, forming a button hole stand and a crotch seam edge upon a second fabric panel, placing a fabric strip upon the button stand panel with a portion thereof in engagement with the button stand and a portion adjacent the crotch seam edge, folding the seam edge of the button stand panel upon the fabric strip, stitching the fabric strip to the button stand and between the fold edge of the crotch seam of the button stand panel, infolding the edge of the crotch seam of the button hole stand panel, folding the free edge of the strip upon the folded seam edge of the button stand panel, placing the infolded edge of the button hole stand panel upon the strip in a manner that the fold edge of the infolded edge of the button hole stand panel extends beyond the fold edge of the strip and into engagement with the body of the button stand. panel, stitching through the layers of fabric in vertical alignment with the strip throughout the length thereof including the portion of the strip engaging the button stand, and stitching the fold edge of the button hole stand panel to the body of the button stand panel including a portion of the button stand.

6. A method of making a crotch seam for overalls, pajamas, shorts and like articles comprising forming a button stand and a crotch seam edge upon a fabric panel, forming a button hole stand and a crotch seam edge upon a second fabric panel, placing a fabric strip upon the button stand panel with a portion thereof in engagement with the button stand and a portion adjacent the crotch seam edge, folding the seam edge of the button stand panel upon the fabric strip, stitching the fabric strip to the button stand and between the fold edge of the crotch seam of the button stand panel, infolding the edge of the crotch seam of the button hole stand panel, folding the free edge of the strip upon the folded seam edge of the button stand panel, placing the infolded edge of the button hole stand panel upon the strip in a manner that the fold edge of the infolded edge of the button hole stand panel extends beyond the fold edge of the strip and into engagement with the body of the button stand panel, stitching through the layers of fabric in vertical alignment with the strip throughout the length thereof including the portion of the strip engaging the button stand, stitching the fold edge of the button hole stand panel to the body of the button stand panel, and stitching transversely across the button and button hole stands through the strip secured to the button stand.

FRANK H. HOMOELLE. 

